Nicknamed the Tuscany of Valencia, Ontinyent is as picturesque as it is forward-thinking.  Iconic views can be seen from Pont de Santa Maria; an arched viaduct that leaps over a leafy gorge and spies rows of pastel-coloured townhouses. In the old town, the sun-dappled squares might look sleepy but this city doesn't rest on its laurels. Trade has flourished here, from textiles to brandy, pottery to wine – the result is a city that marries modernity and tradition brilliantly. Old townhouses stand shoulder-to-shoulder with sleek apartment blocks, while restaurants range from old-world tabernas to inventive bistros. Further afield, family-run bodegas farm vineyards on the hills and produce excellent garnacha. Ontinyent is a honey trap for day-trippers and expats adore it.

What's it like to live in Ontinyent

Waking up to the sound of 16th-century church bells on Sunday morning is utterly charming. The old town is peppered with churches, like Iglesia Arciprestal de Santa María with its sweeping Gothic ceiling and Sant Carlos Borromeo with the star-shaped cupola. The old town is a tangle of tight streets, in some places they're so narrow that the houses' balconies almost touch across the cobbled road.

Days go at a leisurely pace; life revolves around food and socialising. Shopping for field-fresh fruit and vegetables is a joy thanks to the local market – Més Que Horta is especially good for its line-up of organic rosy tomatoes, peaches and local sheep's cheese. It's located on the fringes of the medieval centre, from which there are a number of walks into the nearby countryside. In the afternoon, take a stroll down to the riverside artist studio, or take a short hike to the wild swimming spot with sky-blue water.

The evening is when the city comes to life and people take to the streets for a stroll and to feast in fine local restaurants. Couples potter arm-in-arm past parked-up Vespas and flowers dangling over pretty balconies. Small theatres show plays and classical concerts, while underground venues host gigs by local bands. Round off the night with gelato from La Ibense and wander through the elegant old town. 

Living in Ontinyent: essential information

The population in Ontinyent in 2023 was around 36,000, according to ine.es – a number that has been rising steadily for the past 10 years. Of this, around 11.66% are people from outside of Spain. The most common immigrant nationalities come from the EU (5.1%) and America (2.5%), followed by Africa (2.3% ) and then Asia and Oceana (0.4%). The average age of people living in the municipality is 43 years.

Healthcare in Ontinyent

After years of planning and a couple of setbacks, a brand new hospital opened in Ontinyent in 2023. The €38 million Hospital General Ontinyent aims to boost public healthcare in the area, giving locals access to operating theatres, more beds and extended facilities for endoscopy and chronic illnesses.

As well as the main hospital, there are three smaller health centres (centros de salud) serving local residents offering appointments and checkups.

The city also offers a range of private healthcare facilities, like Isa Ferrero who specialises in treating the immune system and stress symptoms, and the more family-centred Inma Gandia, a specialist in children's physiotherapy and breastfeeding.

Working in Ontinyent

Despite being a small city, Ontinyent punches above its weight in terms of industry. In the 20th century, it specialised in textiles like curtains, rugs and mattresses, but more recently agriculture has taken a front seat. Ontinyent has the largest percentage of ground dedicated to industry in the Vall d'Albaida, 26% according to a government report on industry in Valencia.

Industrial and farm work might be the most common, but what about people living in Ontinyent who don't speak Spanish? Private tutoring could be an option; exploring local language schools like English Coaching and Kumon might be a good starting point. Read our handy guide for more help with finding a job in Spain.

Freelancers looking for a change of scenery will have top options for remote working. Coworking Ontinyent, for example, is a light, modern space with café, meeting rooms and private desks. In general, the internet speed isn't rocket fast but a decent 89 Mbps. Entrepreneurs should look into the Digital Nomad Visa. It's available to freelancers as long as they meet certain requirements, like earning €2140 per month – and it covers families, too.

Schools and education in Ontinyent

But what's it like to live in Ontinyent with children? It's a big question, but the good news is there are plenty of local schools to choose from. There are essentially three types of schools in Spain: pública (public), concertada (semi-private, usually faith-orientated schools) and privada (private).

Public schools are taught in both Valencian and Spanish (and there's usually a bit of English thrown in too). The exact percentages of each language vary according to individual schools and the bilingual laws at the time – these do change depending on the government, so it's a good idea to keep in the loop with this.  

Ontinyent public schools generally have a good reputation, check micole.net for their best-of lists. Colegio Lluís Vives gets glowing reviews. The school teaches 65% in Valencian, 25% in Spanish and the rest is a mixture of other languages.

Semi-private schools receive government funding and families also pay a fee. These schools have the freedom to choose their curriculum and are usually Catholic. Colegio Pureza De María has a sterling reputation in Ontinyent. They offer Erasmus options, language exchanges and a long list of extracurricular activities. 
 
Private schools generally have the best reputation, and British schools offer a smooth transition for children from the UK. There is a British school in Xàtiva, a 22-minute drive from Ontinyent. This private school is taught entirely in English and follows the British curriculum. For further guidance, this article on finding the right school in Spain explains everything in more detail.

Transport in Ontinyent

There is a free bus service which passes by the main hospitals, schools and the old town. The service runs every 30 minutes and is part of a push for a greener, more active town centre.

The streets are quite hilly, so the local government implemented the brilliant electric bike scheme Ontibici to help locals whizz around. With stations dotted around the city, the high-tech bikes facilitate easy climbs up winding streets – no huffing and puffing necessary. It costs just €15 for 12 months. The first 30 minutes are free and it costs 50 cents every 30 minutes thereafter.

Want to explore your surroundings? Ontinyent train station will ferry you to vibrant Valencia in under two hours and historic Xàtiva in 1hr10min. Driving will help you find all the hidden coves and remote viewpoints, but do read our guide to driving in Spain after Brexit for some important information. 

Things to do in Ontinyent

Splash in Plou Clar

On a hot day there is nowhere better than Plou Clar. These wild swimming pools are carved into the stone by the river; the water is so clear that fish peer up at walkers from the depths of the emerald water. Access via a walking path found just outside the city, around a 20-minute stroll along path Alba.

Gaze at the stars

Located in the heart of tranquil countryside, Ontinyent has some gorgeous spots for stargazing. New to the hobby? Sign up to a course at Finca San Agustin, the very first stargazing accredited venue in the Valencian Community. Their course Entre Cielo y Estrellas is a series of talks aimed at astronomy newbies; pick and choose between an initial chat and introduction to stargazing (€5), a two-hour guided session with a telescope (€10), or a night walk beneath the stars with telescope observation (€25).

Go wine tasting in picture book vineyards

The hills surrounding Ontinyent are rich with grapes. Third-generation run La Casa de las Vides is a 10-minute drive from Ontinyent, and offers sunset wine tastings among the vines (€15, under 15 years free). No need to fight over who's the designated driver: book a suite in the on-site hotel and throw in an aromatherapy massage while you're at it. Over at Pago Casa Gran, guided wine tours talk visitors through their organic farming techniques, before tasting three wines with a selection of local charcuterie (€15, under 17 years €8). 

Marvel at ancient architecture

A trip to the oldest building in Ontinyent is essential. Built around 1311, Palau de la Vila was  one of the royal residences of Jaime I, before it fell into disrepair and was taken over by the local council. A huge restoration project has spruced the grand site up, and now visitors can admire the majestic curved staircases and gothic barrel-vaulted ceilings.

Visit an eccentric art studio

Follow the path beside the river Clariano to land upon a curious sight: an enormous boat-shaped building tiled in stainless steel, tassels and industrial air ducts. This is the Fundació Salvador Mollà, an enormous, extroverted space dedicated to the work of the artist of the same name. Salvador himself runs workshops from his studio, offering guided tours of his riverside sculpture park and pottery courses indoors.

Explore the local restaurant scene

Food is just one of the things that Ontinyent does brilliantly, with a good mix of tradition and new ideas. Cases de Borras is a much-loved local haunt that serves classic dishes like arroz al horno, slow-cooked pork cheek and creamy cheesecake. Paixixi is a more contemporary restaurant, with stylish interiors and a slick kitchen that serves up fluffy bao buns and profiteroles. The Nomad, meanwhile, is a laid-back hangout opposite a leafy park serving top ramen and fluffy bao buns.

Learn how to play padel

Born in the 1960's in Mexico, padel has taken off like a rocket in Spain – it's now more popular than tennis. Never played before? Get on the court and have a bash, Padel Indoor Ontinyent offers classes in their modern complex just outside of the city centre. It's €20 for a one-hour lesson, or €24 for a couple (it's usually a doubles game). The family-friendly sports centre also has a gym for warm-ups, a small football court for kids and regular tournaments.

Take a tour of the museums

Thanks to the number of museums in Ontinyent, it's easy to brush up on the fascinating local history. Start with Museu Tèxtil de la Comunitat Valenciana, an intriguing look into the old weaving techniques used during the olden era of hand-made textiles. Museu Fester gives background to the city's biggest festivals, with an extensive collection of traditional outfits, and incredible black-and-white photos of celebrations over the years.

Expat clubs and activities in Ontinyent

English-language groups are few and far between – all the more reason to get out there and practise your Spanish with people living in Ontinyent. Visual classes like dance and yoga will be easier to follow, and you'll pick up some phrases along the way. Try Yoga y Mas for hatha yoga, African dance, or chair yoga for people with reduced mobility. Gym for Women offers more heart-pumping classes.

There are more expat-focused groups in nearby towns, like the multilingual jam group Quedamos a Tocar; they regularly meet in Gandia to sing and improvise. Walkers might like to investigate Expedition Costa Blanca: a friendly group of international ramblers who explore different trails every weekend, from rocky mountains to seaside paths.